Finding Angkor quiet as the sun sets.

Wandering through quickly at sunset, as the monument closes, we dodged the ushering security guards and took a circuitous route to remain inside as long as possible and managed to experience the monument amazingly alone and free from the usual throng of thousands of tourists. It was a magical way to experience the place, as if just discovered deep among the jungle rather than its now intense popularity. We didn't of course: we arrived in the well-travelled path like everyone else. But as the sun dwindled and the stone walls showed their deep centuries, it was memorable to pretend we were lone explorers to these ancient temples for an hour and each new corner was unknown.